Friday, October 8, 2010

McRoman’s Happy Meal: Fast Food in Ancient Rome (1st C AD)


McRoman’s Happy Meal: Fast Food in Ancient Rome (1st C AD)

By: The Scribe on August, 2007



While it’s often thought that fast food was a modern invention of a society bent on immediate gratification… well, that theory can now be placed to rest. A study on the remains found at Pompeii has revealed that, more often than not, ancient Romans ate their food while “on the run”.

Although the concept of Roman fast food eateries has been around for awhile, after excavating an entire city block from Pompeii, archaeologists realized that the distinct lack of tableware, formal dining areas, or even full kitchens in Roman homes seems to indicate that cooking – and eating together as a family – wasn’t necessarily at the forefront of ancient Roman concerns. Instead, isolated plates in various corners of the homes turned up, even in places that were previously thought to be unrelated to eating, such as in the bedroom.

This seems similar to how today’s children and adults will take a plate of food into another area of the home while working on something else, instead of always sitting down at the kitchen table to eat. In fact, many of the homes also contained mini-barbeque style implements, which would have certainly allowed someone to cook their meat faster and could eat it on the go.


In addition, there are literally remains of fast food restaurants from Pompeii. These places resemble something like a cross between McDonald’s and a British Pub, in the sense that you could purchase both food and alcohol, and could either grab it and go or sit down at little tables inside the eatery. These fast food places were open to the street, and had a large counter area with a reception area in the middle where the food and drink would be served.

Another ancient Roman fast food joint.

Then, if you wanted, you could sit down at one of the picnic-style tables and quickly munch down your bread and hot sausage (with cheese!), or carry it off as you went about your business – or perhaps bring the food back home for the family, if the wife didn’t want to cook that evening. And while it may seem strange to think that people in ancient times could support these kinds of establishments, many of the people living in Pompeii specifically were comparatively wealthy – local artisans, shopkeepers, potters, weavers, and so on – and could therefore afford to eat out on a regular basis.

Pompeii was also a bit on the touristy side, attracting people from all over the Roman Empire, which must have helped business along as well – seemingly to the point where individuals could own more than one fast food shop, as there is a known inscription that indicates one man owned over ten “franchises” in Pompeii alone!

A “fast food” stand where Romans could purchase breads and drinks.]

Based on these finds, it is extremely likely that there were also fast food shops elsewhere in the ancient Roman world, however it is doubtful that there were quite as many as there seemed to be in Pompeii. Of course, as much as the Romans liked their fast food, it should be remembered that it was undoubtedly much healthier for them to eat out on a regular basis than the choices offered to the modern consumer these days!

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

ISICIA OMENTATA (a kind of Roman Burgers)





Isicia Omentata
Isicia omentata: pulpam concisam teres cum medulla siliginei in vino infusi. piper, liquamen, si velis, et bacam myrtam extenteratam simul conteres. pusilla isicia formabis, intus nucleis et pipere positis. involuta omento subassabis cum caroeno.

Translation:

Finely cut pulp of pork is ground with the hearts of winterwheat and diluted with wine. Flavor lightly with pepper and broth and if you like add a moderate quantity of myrtle berries also crushed, and after you have added crushed nuts and pepper shape the forcemeat into small rolls, wrap these in caul, fry, and serve with wine gravy.

(Apicius, 2, 1, 7)  
Ingredients: 
------------

500g minced meat
1 French roll, soaked in white wine 
1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper 
50ml Liquamen 
(can be replaced by 
1/2 tsp salt and a little white wine) 
some stone-pine kernels 
green peppercorns
a little Caroenum 
Baking foil  
Instructions: 
------------- 
Mix minced meat with the soaked french roll. 
Ground spices and mix into the meat. 
Form small burgers and put pine kernels and peppercorns into them. 
Put them into baking foil and grill them together with Caroenum.













http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~mjw/recipes/ethnic/historical/ant-rom-coll.html#3

Bulgarian Archaeologist Comes Across Ancient Rock Stove

Bulgarian Archaeologist Comes Across Ancient Rock Stove

Archaeology | October 5, 2010, Tuesday

Bulgaria: Bulgarian Archaeologist Comes Across Ancient Rock Stove
Bulgarian archaeologist Nikolay Ovcharov demonstrates how the ancient rock stove that he found at Perperikon works. Photo by Darik News

Leading Bulgarian archaeologist Nikolay Ovcharov has completed his four-month summer excavations at the Ancient Thracian city of Perperikon.

On Tuesday, Ovcharov presented his latest intriguing discovery an ancient cooking stove cut right into the stones of the rock city dated back to 3rd-4th century.

The stove consists of a lower part, a hearth, whose ceiling has two holes that let through some fire; the ceramic cooking vessels would be placed on top of the holes.

"We can easily call this discovery a prototype of the contemporary cooking stoves," Ovcharov said.

The archaeologist made a recapitulation of his four months of excavations over the summer, during which his team examined 100 meters of the fortress wall of Perperikon.

The 3-meter-thick wall is taken to mean that Perperikon was the strongest fortress in the Rhodope Mountain from the Roman period (in this case, the second half of the 3rd century AD).

The stronghold protected what is believed to have been a palace-sanctuary harboring the ancient temple of Dionysus.

Professor Ovcharov, also known as the "Bulgarian Indiana Jones", believes that Perperikon was a religious center in Thracian and Roman times but was also a crucial city controlling the mining of gold in the Rhodope Mountain.

The numerous artifacts and objects unearthed by him over the summer include a Roma lamp with the image of a naked dancer, bronze and silver ornaments, lead seals of local rulers, including the Byzantine patrician Teodorokan, two rock tombs, and an image of a mummer (known in Bulgaria as "kukeri" dated to the 13th century.


Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Moretum - E Pluribus Unum

From The Classical Cookbook, I made Moretum, which came from the recipes that comprise a feast at Cato's farm. "Moretum" translates to "salad." This recipe is actually a poem by the same name written by Virgil.

The original Latin poem can be found ibi.
The English translation can be found here.


The Classical Cookbook recipe calls for:



2 heads garlic
8 oz Pecorino Romano Cheese
1 large handful of coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 t chopped fresh rue
2 heaped t chopped fresh celery leaf
1 t salt
1 T white wine vinegar
1 T olive oil

Peel, and roughly chop the garlic. Grate the cheese. Roughly chop the herbs Grind the garlic and salt, break it down to a pulp in a mortar and pestle. Add cheese and herbs. When you have a smooth mixture, add liquids, and mix well. Gather mixture together and chill. Serve with a crusty loaf.



Dear Reader, although authenticity is a prominent objective of this blog, and following the ancients' culinary techniques is a valuable endeavor, sometimes it is necessary for me to not follow the recipes of antiquity to the letter. In the interest of keeping things scholarly on this blog, I skipped this part of the recipe in Virgil's poem:

Th' aforesaid herbs he now doth introduce
And with his left hand 'neath his hairy groin
Supports his garment;' with his right he first
The reeking garlic with the pestle breaks,

This garlic and cheese recipe is actually quite famous. In the original Latin poem, during the mashing of the garlic and green herbs, Virgil describes the colors blending into one ("color est e pluribus unus"), at line 102. This is conjugated to, "E Pluribus Unum," the motto of the United States of America. Our country's motto came from a cheese ball recipe.



Epityrum album nigrum variumque

Salve! Spartacurtus sum!

Today, I tried out a recipe from The Classical Cookbook, by Andrew Dalby and Sally Grainger. This book lays out huge feasts one dish at a time. The feasts' recipes vary in historical times, and geographically.

I picked out the recipe for Olive Relish, which is part of the feast for the homecoming of Odysseus. The recipe is based upon Cato's On Agriculture.
The original recipe, translated, is:

Recipe for a confection of green, ripe, and mottled olives. Remove the stones from green, ripe, and mottled olives, and season as follows: chop the flesh, and add oil, vinegar, coriander, cumin, fennel, rue, and mint. Cover with oil in an earthen dish, and serve.
-Cato, On Agriculture, 119
Here's the original Latin.

This is the recipe as interpreted by The Classical Cookbook:
4 oz black olives
4 oz green olives
4 T red wine vinegar
4 T olive oil
1 t chopped fennel leaf, or root
2 t chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)
2 t chopped fresh rue
2 t chopped fresh mint

Chop olives roughly, add oil and vinegar. Prepare herbs by chopping finely. Add to mixture. Top off with a dash more olive oil, and seal container.


On Agriculture was written around 200 BC, by Cato, a Roman soldier and politician. The authors of The Classical Cookbook recommended that I alter the recipe, and omit the cumin. Cumin today is seed, which is very aromatic, and not the leaf, which is not. Using cumin at today's strengths from the seed overpowers the dish, so I followed the authors' recommendation, and left it out.


I am an amateur gardener, and tend an herb garden. I had rue, mint, coriander (cilantro), fennel all growing in pots in my backyard. Using fresh herbs certainly helped. This was actually the first time I had actually used the rue, which I was a bit afraid of, because I'd heard it can give you a rash if you touch it. Fortunately, this blogger was safe.

The Olive Relish turned out great! I am extremely happy with the results. I love olives in the first place, so it would have been hard to go wrong. The red wine vinegar added to the olives was a really nice touch. The herbs are an interesting addition, especially the mint. I would have to say that this olive medley beats anything they have at those olive bars, hands down. This recipe was an absolute success. I could eat this all day. I found that the dish does get better with age, even though Cato recommends serving immediately, I thought that once the herbs, oils, and olives got to mingle a bit, it only tasted better.


Sunday, October 3, 2010

National Taco Day

I understand the fact that this is a Classical food blog, but please realize that this is still a food blog. Therefore, I would like to take a moment to recognize National Taco Day, October 4. Being that this food blog is based in San Anto, and we take our tacos pretty seriously, I thought I'd attempt for this humble blog to pay homage.

You'd think it might be a bit of a stretch to try and tie Ancient cuisine to delicious Mexican food, but here's an article from National Geographic that might be able to bridge the gap.

I believe that it could be possible that the taco came from Ancient roots. I found in The Frugal Gormet Cooks Three Ancient Cuisines by Jeff Smith, "(The Greeks) developed the 'edible plate,'... by topping the bread with an assortment of 'relishes,' here meaning anything that was put on the bread." This completely sounds like piling ingredients on a tortilla, if you ask me.

To celebrate National Taco Day, Taco Cabana will be giving out FREE breakfast tacos at all their locations Monday, Oct 4 from 7a-9a.

Additionally, Jacala Mexican Restaurant at 606 West Ave, San Antonio, TX 78201 (210) 732-5222 is throwing a Taco Day celebration from 7p-9p.















Figure in center is holding a taco.

Garum Colatura


In the ongoing discussion of garum, I thought I'd post this from another blog I read, The Kitchn. I've copied the article, and the comments.
Is anyone interested in trying this stuff out?

-Spartacurtus



Garum Colatura: Ancient Roman Fish Sauce!

2010-07-20-Garum2.jpgThe people of Southern Italy and Southern Asia may be far apart, geographically, but when it comes to fermented fish, they have a lot in common. Both Thai cooks and ancient Roman chefs relied on a certain salty, powerfully fishy liquid dredged off fermenting anchovies. They added this to dishes for savor and umami. The Thai call it fish sauce (nam pla); the ancient Romans called it garum. And it's still around, more or less.

2010-07-20-Garum.jpg
Have you heard of garum, the ancient Roman fish sauce, made from what seeped out of the barrels of fermenting anchovies and other fish? It's still made today, although it probably isn't as pungent. It is sold in little glass vials, sometimes under the label anchovy extract or syrup, whose instructions advise you to toss it with pasta, garlic, red pepper, and olive oil.
I had been hearing a lot about colatura, and I was dying to try it. I picked up a little bottle at Zingerman's, and dashed it over pasta. Delicious! It does indeed have a fishy smell, but when you spread a tablespoon or two through a whole batch of pasta it just gives it an elusive savory, briny flavor, which complements summer basil and tomatoes, or simple garlic, in a beautifully wild and addictive set of flavors. I am hoarding the rest of the bottle, saving it for the best pastas and simple dinners at home.
Obviously this isn't a vegetarian product, but if you are simply trying to eat less meat, or use meat more for flavor than for substance, this would be a fantastic addition to your cupboard.
Its rather shocking price, though, has made me wonder about using just straight up fish sauce in pasta. Anyone tried this?
Read more: Essence of Anchovy From the Amalfi Coast, by Melissa Clark - An excellent introduction to garum and its modern equivalent.
Find it: Garum Colatura, $17 at Zingerman's
(Images: Faith Durand)